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Field Guide · The Kit

Enrichment

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Snuffle mat

Hides kibble in the fabric so a dog sniffs it out, and sniffing is genuinely calming. Our go-to for a dog who needs a job on a rainy day.

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Lick mat

Spread something soft and the licking settles an anxious dog. We use them for bath time, nail trims, and vet visits.

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Kong Classic (multiple sizes)

The workhorse of enrichment. Stuff it, freeze it, and it buys you a quiet hour. We reach for it for crate time and alone-time practice.

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Flirt pole

A lure on a pole for a fast, satisfying chase that burns real energy in a small yard. We also use it to teach impulse control: chase, then "drop," then chase again.

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Flirt pole replacement lure (fleece rope)

The fleece lure that takes the beating. Keep a spare so the chase games don't stop when the first one is loved to pieces.

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Frozen treat mold / silicone tray

Freeze a stuffed treat into a long-lasting popsicle. Perfect for a Houston afternoon or a dog who needs to settle while you're busy.

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West Paw Tux or Toppl

A tough, dishwasher-safe stuffable toy that's easy to fill and clean. We like the Toppl for softer fillings and lick-mat spreads.

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Snuffle ball

A rolling snuffle toy a dog noses around to shake kibble loose. More movement than a flat mat, good for dogs who like to chase their food.

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Extra-durable chews (power chewers)

Built for the heavy chewers who treat a normal chew as a warm-up. Long-lasting and made to hold up without splintering.

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Natural single-ingredient chews

A long chew is how a lot of dogs unwind. These are single-ingredient and digestible, the kind we'd rather hand a dog than a rawhide. Always size the chew to the dog and supervise, and take the last stub away so it can't be gulped.

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Bully stick & chew safety holder

The piece that makes a chew a safe chew. A holder grips the last few inches so a dog can't swallow the end whole, which is the part that scares us. We use one anytime a dog chews hard and fast.

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Hide-and-seek plush puzzle

A soft puzzle for dogs who want to use their mouth. Squeakers push down into the burrow and your dog pulls them out. Most dogs empty it fast, so hide a treat under each squeaker and it lasts a lot longer.

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Freezable treat toy

Cheap enough to own two or three. Fill, freeze, and always have one ready while another is in the wash. Good for teething puppies, and the easiest way to build a rotation.

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Premade frozen treat pops

The no-effort frozen treat for when you don't have time to stuff and freeze your own. Grab, give, done.

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Digital kitchen scale

Enrichment is where dogs quietly get fat, because the food goes into puzzles on top of dinner instead of out of it. A scale is what makes measuring the whole day out actually possible: a scoop is not a measurement, and the error compounds every single day. This is the one we use.

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Fetch / tug rope toy

Tug with rules is one of the best relationship games there is. We use these to teach "take it" and "drop it" while burning energy.

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Softer natural chews

Chews that give under a thumbnail. Tendon, collagen and no-hide rolls do the licking and chewing work without the fracture risk that comes with antlers, hooves and hard cheese chews.

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Bone broth for dogs

Low sodium and no onion or garlic, which rules out most broth on a supermarket shelf. We use it frozen into a KONG or a mold, where it turns a two-minute toy into a twenty-minute one.

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Tennis balls

For hiding, not for fetch marathons. A muffin tin with a ball in every cup is one of the cheapest puzzles there is. The fuzz on a sports tennis ball is abrasive, so the dog-specific ones are worth it if your dog carries one everywhere.

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Dog pool

A foldable pool that empties and stores flat, which matters in a Houston summer when it is out for four months and gone for eight. We use it for bobbing games and as a ball pit as much as for cooling off.

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Ball pit balls

Crush-proof, so they survive being stood on. Tip them into a dry pool or a shallow tub, scatter food underneath, and a dog has to move the whole surface to get at it. They come in a mesh bag, which is how they go back in the cabinet.

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Digging box tub

Rigid walls, because wet sand is heavy and a flexible bin folds in on itself. The sides are the thing to think about: low enough that your dog steps in rather than climbs. Either one doubles as the container for a ball pit.

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Scent work starter kit

Everything for a first birch session in one box. What makes it suit a reactive dog is the setup, not the sniffing: it needs no space, no other dogs, and nothing outside your own four walls.

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Sweet birch scent oil

The standard first odor in competitive nosework, which means everything you teach on it transfers if you ever compete. One bottle lasts years: a hide takes a single drop on a cotton swab.

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Scent work cotton swabs

AKC Scent Work allows paper stems only, so buy the paper ones if a trial is anywhere in your future. They are double-tipped, which is why the rules tell you to cut each one in half. The long wooden ones are not trial legal, but they reach the bottom of a deep tin and cost nothing to practice with.

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Scent work tins

Vented metal tins that hold the odor and not the food, so your dog learns to find the smell rather than the snack. Magnetic backs let you stick a hide somewhere a dog has to work for it.

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Agility tunnel

Collapses to a disc and takes about four seconds to put up. Indoors it is real physical work in a small footprint, which is what a rainy week or a heat advisory calls for.

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Balance and conditioning gear

Wobbly surfaces that make a dog think about where their feet are. Five minutes is genuinely tiring, and it is one of the few real workouts available to a dog on restricted movement once a vet clears it.

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Dog treadmill

The honest answer to a week where going outside is not safe, whether that is heat, a storm, or a dog who cannot yet cope with the street. Introduce it slowly and never tether a dog to it.

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Spring pole

A bungee and a tug hung from a branch, so your dog can play tug without you holding the other end. Genuinely tiring for a strong dog. Hang it so their feet stay on the ground.

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Artificial turf mat

A new texture underfoot without leaving the house, which is real work for a dog who has only ever walked on tile and concrete. Doubles as an indoor potty surface for a puppy or a dog on crate rest.

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Non-slip yoga mat

Cheap traction. We put one down for any work on a slick floor, because a dog who slips once will hold back from the exercise afterwards, and it doubles as a portable mat for settle work.

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Rubber sink mat

The base for a homemade snuffle mat. The drainage holes are what fleece strips get tied through, and one mat plus a few yards of fleece costs a fraction of a bought one.

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Fleece by the yard

What a DIY snuffle mat is made of. Anti-pill polar fleece does not fray when cut into strips, so the mat survives being shaken about and washed.

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Plastic canvas sheets

The stiffer alternative base for a homemade snuffle mat. Holds its shape better than a rubber mat, which suits a dog who pushes the mat around the floor rather than working it in place.

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Spade drill bit set

For cutting kibble-sized holes in PVC pipe, which is the entire trick behind a homemade treat roller. Wide, flat bits go through plastic cleanly where a twist bit grabs and cracks it.

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As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Links here are affiliate links, at no extra cost to you.

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