How to Teach Your Dog “No” (and Why Louder Doesn't Work)
Most houses use one “no” for everything. Split it into two words, make something always follow each one, and your dog can finally tell what you're asking.
Read note →Plain-language answers to the questions I hear in almost every session. No jargon, no fluff, just what actually helps.
Trainers throw this word around constantly. It actually means two things at once, and once you can see both, your dog's reactive walks start to make a lot more sense.
First, I get it. A dog coming apart at the end of the leash is embarrassing and exhausting and genuinely frustrating, and I sympathize with it every single time. But I almost always have to walk an owner back from the same two words: stubborn, and bad. Your dog is neither. Two separate things are usually going on, and neither one is defiance. The first is that in that moment your dog physically can't think. The second, which stings a little more to hear, is that a lot of the time they simply don't know any better yet, because nobody has put in the long, patient work of teaching them what to do instead. It isn't stubbornness. It's closer to ignorance, and ignorance is on us to fix, not the dog.
Read the full note →Most houses use one “no” for everything. Split it into two words, make something always follow each one, and your dog can finally tell what you're asking.
Read note →A dog who could do it last month and can't do it now has almost never forgotten it. Usually one of four things changed, and each one has a fix.
Read note →Reactivity isn't one thing. It's fear, frustration, or a body that's learned to panic, and once you know which one you're looking at, everything else gets easier.
Read note →When a question is bigger than a note, I go and read everything on it. Every source is here, and so is the name of whoever funded it.
Grain-free diets and canine dilated cardiomyopathy: what the FDA investigation was, what eight years of research established, who funded each study, and what remains unresolved.
One word in a product name decides whether a bag must hold 95% chicken, 3% chicken, or none at all. There is a rulebook behind the front of the package that almost no shopper has been told about.
The back of a dog food bag is designed to look transparent. Ingredients are listed by weight, but that weight includes water. One ingredient can be split into four different names. The guaranteed analysis prints the bare minimum, not a measurement. Once you know the tricks, the same panel tells a very different story.
What a dog’s ears, eyes, mouth, weight and tail are telling you, the combinations worth knowing on sight, and the signals people most often get wrong.
The words I use in sessions and throughout the notes, in plain English. Every term has its own page with how it works and what it looks like in practice, and tapping a dotted term inside an article shows you the same definition.
A rescue heuristic suggesting a newly adopted dog takes roughly three days to begin decompressing, three weeks to start settling, and three months to feel at home.
Read the full entryThe Association of American Feed Control Officials, the body that writes the model pet food regulations most US states adopt into their own law.
Read the full entryA trial in which a food is fed to animals under a defined protocol and they are monitored, used to establish that the food is nutritionally adequate.
Read the full entryWhatever happens immediately before a behavior and sets the occasion for it.
Read the full entryA word used to tell a dog that the response they just gave was not the one being asked for.
Read the full entryReactive behavior driven by being physically prevented from reaching something, rather than by fear of it.
Read the full entryBehavior Adjustment Training, Grisha Stewart's protocol in which a dog on a long line chooses whether to approach or move away from a trigger, and the distance itself functions as the reward.
Read the full entryThe things a dog has to be able to do in order to be alright, as distinct from the things people would prefer they did.
Read the full entryA dog's learned control over how much force they use when their mouth closes on something.
Read the full entryHaving a shortened skull and muzzle, as in bulldogs, pugs, French bulldogs and boxers.
Read the full entryA secondary product left over from making a main one, such as the organ meat remaining after muscle meat is taken for human food.
Read the full entryThe food, treats, and tools that show up in almost every session. Real picks, not sponsorships.
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Every leash, treat, puzzle, and enrichment tool I recommend, curated and kept current in one place.
A freeze-dried raw topper I reach for with picky eaters and dogs who need food that really motivates.
Shop on AmazonOne of my favorite outlets for high-drive dogs. Add start-and-stop cues and it becomes impulse-control practice.
Shop on AmazonShort, simple ingredient list. Breaks into small pieces, so it doubles as a high-value training reward.
Shop on AmazonSingle-ingredient minnow treats. The reward that gets through to a dog working hard under threshold.
Shop on AmazonThe cross-body pouch I actually wear to sessions. Opens one-handed, holds enough for a full walk.
Shop on AmazonKeeps your marker consistent and your hands free. Small, quiet, easy to use on the go.
Shop on AmazonThe most comprehensive dog DNA test available: breed breakdown, screening for 230+ genetic conditions, and a relative finder. I recommend it to clients working through behavior with an unknown breed background, because a dog's genetic profile can genuinely change how you train.
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If your dog struggles on walks, you are not failing them by staying home. Everything here happens indoors, in your own yard, or somewhere quiet: no sidewalks, no strangers, no other dogs.
The books that shaped how I train, science-based, practical, and written for real dog owners.
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Browse the full bookshelf on Amazon
The full reading list, kept current in one place. The handful below are the ones I hand people first.
The field guide for BAT, the exact protocol I use with reactive dogs. Dense and practical. Pairs well with in-person sessions.
A foundational one for reactive and anxious dogs. Games and patterns that help an overwhelmed dog learn to settle and check in with you instead of coming apart.
A behaviorist's guide to why dogs do what they do, written for the humans on the other end. Required reading for a reactive or anxious dog.
The clearest, most practical guide to resource guarding I know. Short and direct, and it will change how you handle a dog who guards food, toys, or space.
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Vets, clinics, and quiet routes.
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Lessons, homework, visit reports and your dogs' records, for everyone working with Hearth & Hounds.
A book, a trusted Houston vet, a tool that changed things for your dog. This guide grows with what our clients teach us. Send it our way.
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